Akaishi Onsen

If you drive away from the flat Kofu Basin and follow the winding roads up into the mountains, the valley starts to close in around you. The air cools down quickly, and you will find yourself surrounded by the thick smell of cedar trees and wet river stones. Down at the bottom of the Togawa ravine, right where the cliffs rise up toward Mount Kushigata, you will find Akaishi Onsen. It is not a busy resort town at all. It is just a single, weathered wooden lodge that has been sitting by the rushing river since the late 1800s.

Most travelers come to Yamanashi hoping for a clear view of Mount Fuji, but the real treasures here are hidden right in the ground. The spring water at Akaishi is completely unique. When it first pumps out of the dark earth at a chilly twelve degrees, it looks as clear as tap water. However, it is packed full of natural iron and minerals. The moment it flows into the open air and mixes with oxygen, it changes color completely, turning into a thick, opaque reddish-brown that looks exactly like liquid clay.

Stepping into the heated bath here feels like experiencing a piece of old Japan. As you slide beneath the steaming, rust-colored surface, the stress of daily life goes away. The water has a sharp, sour metallic taste because of its high acidity, and you can feel a slight, clean tingle on your skin that locals say is excellent for soothing sore muscles and joints.

Because the water is so thick and muddy, you are completely hidden from view the moment you sit down in the pool. From the outdoor bath, you can listen to the loud roar of the Myouren waterfall just a short walk up the trail. If you look up through the rising steam, you can see the green forest canopy framing the quiet mountain sky. In the winter, the view is incredible because the heavy white snow on the rocks contrasts perfectly with the hot, deep-red water. It is a simple, unpolished place, but that is exactly what makes it such a great escape. If you are willing to make the drive up the mountain, this hidden bath will completely refresh you.